I did not travel much this year. I had a knee replacement in May and it worked! I am now getting around very well. Of course, work did not stop, especially now that I have a smaller team. Ricardo left to start his own company, although I would very much have liked him to take over the reins at Tierra Yucatan. Laura also left, and after nineteen years together, David Palomo left as well. He left to start a law office with his grown sons. I miss the long-time companionship, but they are doing great and with the support of Karla, Javier and Alex, so are we! Isabel is now the front-desk bilingual support and my trusty Rocio runs the office with an iron fist. We are here, or as they say in Yucatan, Wayan’e!

Yucatan just had it’s fist “cold front” of the year in early November, bringing some welcome rain plus pleasantly cooler days and nights. “Cold” in these parts means we are still in short sleeves and light cotton, but really enjoying being in the 80s rather than the 90s.

At the end of November, we celebrated the national holiday for Day of the Dead (Hanal Pixan here in Yucatan). My village of Tepakan started festivities on a Friday night, with the children dressed in their Day of the Dead best putting up traditional altars in the park, and a candle-lit Parade of the Spirits from the cemetery to the central park. In the days and nights that followed, the festivities became more home- and family-oriented. Citizens of the town could be seen cleaning the graves of loved ones, refreshing things with fresh coats of paint, and putting flowers everywhere. In each home, a small personal altar or ofrenda was filled with photographs, flowers, candles, favorite foods of their dead relatives (see a photo on the banner above). Those foods included tamales, pib, some candy for the souls of the children, and perhaps a beer or a tequila for one’s beloved and remembered grandfather or father. Traditional orange cempaxochitl marigolds, dark red coxcomb and purple bachelor’s buttons…. the flowers and colors were everywhere.

I spent November 1 helping make traditional Yucatecan tamales with Maya friends in a nearby village, learning recipes and how to wilt the huge banana leaves over a fire to prepare them as wrappers. It was a long day, but fun, and rewarded by heaps of steaming hot tamales colados (steamed) and tamales tortillados, both filled with shredded chicken and pork. And both pretty and delicious! Now that those festivities are over, it is time to start thinking about making Christmas puddings. I will go to San Antonio for the holidays and that’s an essential part of any Christmas dinner in my family.

Regarding the Merida real estate scene, no cold front here! Things are selling faster than ever before and consequently prices, even for old unremodeled homes, are spiraling upward. Closing costs have increased a bit for both buyers and sellers with the introduction of some new taxes and mandatory appraisals to set property values. You should expect closing costs now to be around 8% of the purchase price, although this will vary by location and appraised value. We will be happy to help with estimates on specific properties when it comes time to make offers.

It’s sunny and warming here in Yucatan, with perfect cool evenings for outdoor dining in our many excellent restaurants. Locals and visitors alike are out enjoying walks under Merida’s huge old trees, especially on weekends when the streets in Merida Centro are closed to traffic and Paseo Montejo becomes a cycling route. Bici Ruta closes off many of the busy streets on Sundays for bicycles, and gives everyone a chance to see the city while biking leisurely with your family and friends.

Easing of travel restrictions has brought visitors to Merida from all over the world. If you are thinking about making Merida your home, don’t wait!  Homes are selling fast and prices, though still reasonable, will be rising as demand exceeds supply.

I took a trip to the beach yesterday and found everyone getting ready for Easter, which is a big beach holiday for locals. Many new restaurants are opening in Chelem, Chuburna and Telchac, and there is much building of new developments all along the coast as you travel east from Progreso.

Some COVID precautions are still in effect – masks required and temperature taken at the door of all businesses – but we expect these measures to be lifted as soon as our infection rates get lower, which could be very soon. Some come on down and enjoy the Yucatan spring!

Corner store in Tepakan with hand sanitizer at the door

I have to give the Mexican government high marks for at least seeming as well prepared as possible for what we are all experiencing during this Coronavirus pandemic. The government began by putting in place a six-phase plan for the stages of the emergency.

Phase 1 was when the virus was spread principally by people bringing it from abroad, and Phase 2, which lasted until yesterday, was slow controlled spread from person to person.  Last night Phase 3 was announced.  This is the phase when we will experience the most spread of the virus in all communities with the greatest pressure on our hospitals and medical teams, with the peak estimated to be around May 8 to 10^th.   Social distancing has been put in place. Only businesses deemed necessary have been open for more than a month.  Schools, restaurants and bars are closed, and, in fact, Yucatan has been a dry state for the past few weeks.

The main centers of infection have been the larger cities, particularly Mexico City.   In Yucatan, Merida has the highest incidence, but we have so far managed to keep the numbers low.  As of yesterday, the government reported the following numbers:

Total confirmed cases in Mexico …………………     8772

Total recovered ………………………………………….        2627

Total number of dead ……………………………….          712

Total confirmed cases in Yucatan…………………………      172

Total recovered ………………………………………………….         5

Total number of dead …………………………………….          10

As you can see from the above numbers, the measures they have taken (social distancing, gel everywhere, disinfecting cars coming in and out of villages) has helped keep people fairly safe.  There have been one or two cases in most larger towns in Yucatan, but nothing so far in my village of Tepakan.  In addition, to prepare for the medical emergency, the Governor of Yucatan obtained 110 additional ventilators for use in hospitals and ambulances.  That said, we have a huge lack of N95 masks and protective equipment of all kinds.

The hardest thing that has affected almost every family in Yucatan and all of Mexico, is that there is less and less work.  Construction projects are shut down and more and more people are out of work.  For people who live on a few dollars a day, this is becoming more and more difficult.

Yesterday, trucks came to every house handing out one “dispensa” to each family (80,000 total were distributed). A “dispensa” is a box containing some food supplies and soap. It is a help, but not enough to keep everyone fed.  Below is a

Spraying down the car as it enters town

translation for yesterday’s newspaper, Diario de Yucatan:

Monday, April 20, 2020

Governor Mauricio Vila Dosal launched the delivery of this aid that comes to support families during this period of economic inactivity in the face of the health emergency. Together with the mayor of Mérida, Renán Barrera Concha, Vila Dosal confirmed the distribution plan that is being carried out in the Yucatan capital.

House by house, a total of 80,000 food packages were delivered to each home in the 47 police station districts of Mérida, as well as to homes in the marginalized areas of the capital. This program was launched today by Governor Mauricio Vila Dosal and the Mayor of Mérida, Renán Barrera Concha, to support Yucatecans during this period of economic inactivity due to the Coronavirus pandemic.

In warehouses where the food packages are kept, the Governor and the municipal president of the Yucatan capital verified the distribution plan that will provide this monthly support, so far planned for April and May, to be delivered to the homes of Merida families who need it most.

It was explained that the State Government is distributing 20,500 packages in Merida, and another 43,000 packages to the houses that are located in surrounding areas.

In addition to these efforts, the Merida City Council has already distributed more than 16,500 food aid packages in shelters and civil associations, support that will continue to reach a total of 20,000 people. In this way, it seeks to benefit a greatest number of people.

The aid from the Government of Vila Dosal is part of the State Plan to Promote the Economy, Jobs and Health of Yucatecans. This plan will distribute 1.8 million food packages to 450,000 Yucatecan households during the months of April and May. They hope this will alleviate the economic effects that inactivity is causing due to the health emergency. Starting last Wednesday, April 15,  distribution was also initiated to each home in the 105 municipalities in the interior of the state.

Accompanied by the head of the State Secretariat of Social Development (Sedesol), Roger Torres Peniche, the Governor and Barrera Concha participated in the preparation and loading of the first trucks that left the warehouse with food aid packages to be taken to the door of the beneficiary homes today.

To do this, Vila Dosal and the Meridano mayor followed proscribed sanitary measures, which are also implemented every day to protect the health of the collaborators and the population.

The Municipal President stated that as a sign of this joint work, since the first day the health contingency began, close communication has been maintained within the State Government regarding pertinent measures and creating emerging programs to safeguard the health of all citizens.

Those in charge of carrying the dispensas house-to-house are following the corresponding sanitary protocols, such as using face masks, gloves and keeping a healthy distance with the beneficiaries, in order to guarantee that they reach Yucatecans in the healthiest and safest way possible. .

It must be emphasized that, with the aim of benefiting the largest possible number of people, four food supply packages are being provided per household, which should allow support for most Yucatecan families.

With strategies such as these, the State Government reiterates the call to the entire Yucatecan population not to leave their homes at this time. This is why these packages will be delivered directly house by house, allowing citizens to avoid crowds and prioritize social isolation as the main prevention measure.”

Statistics as of April 11, 2020 (Yucatan)
Total confirmed positive March and April………… 93
Recovered Confirmed cases……………………….……. 58
In isolation recovering at home:……………………… 18
Hospitalized…………………………………..……………… 11
Deaths……………………………….……………………..….. 6

Merida has excellent hospitals, clinics, and doctors. However, with a large disadvantaged population scattered in small villages and living on a limited diet in close quarters, and most families living on a very small and precarious income, this coronavirus puts the state on the brink of disaster.

Every village in Yucatan has a small clinic and a 24-hour doctor, but they are only able to deal with the simplest and most common emergencies. Facilities equipped to deal with complications of coronavirus can only be found in Merida and would be swiftly overwhelmed if the virus is allowed to spread without any intervention. Throughout Mexico there is very little testing, so statistics are unreliable.  As I write, the national government estimates the coronavirus infection in Mexico is expected to peak in two or three weeks. With that in mind, Mexico is trying to buy 10,000 ventilators and monitors from the United States.

Thanks to quick action both on a national and a local level, we have had very few COVID-19 cases and those have been generally limited to Merida itself. My village of Tepakan has not yet had an infection, and neither has the larger nearby town of Izamal. Early in March, we started closing non-essential businesses everywhere and practicing social distancing. By the third week in March, the police of each village had set up checkpoints that discouraged unnecessary traffic, applied gel to everyone’s hands as they passed, and gave advice on precautions. Early in March, the villages all cancelled plans for Easter gatherings and for the annual fiestas which in our area happen soon after.

Tierra Yucatan closed its doors to the public except by prior appointment.  By March 17th, I allowed one person in the office at a time. This person was required to arrive by personal car (not public transportation), to work three or four hours behind closed doors to answer phones and update the website. That person was also tasked into looking after our little office zoo:  three rescue cats and a turtle. All employees, including the gardener, cleaners etc. are on full salary through the epidemic. My priority is to look after my little “family” and keep us all safe.

As of last week, we changed to just have someone checking the office. The cats, who are after all my responsibility, are living with me out in the little village of Tepakan, my principal home for more than twelve years. I hadn’t planned to have four cats, but they are good company when one is home all the time. I feel very lucky to have a cool and comfortable old rock-built house, a large lot with many fruit trees and a pool large enough for a bit of swimming and aquarobics. Of course, I worry about the safety of my neighbors. But so far, so good.

For me, April and May are the most difficult months to be in Yucatan at the best of times. Our weather is at its very hottest and there is no relief in sight until rain starts in June. The countryside is burned to a crisp, with grass fires that have laid bare the roadsides and many patches of dry, leafless trees. The heat and the dead landscape alone make me feel anxious. I keep bowls of water out for street dogs and stray animals, as there is no relief from the sun for them. This year is statistically much worse than usual, with a forecast of temperatures rising to 107 degrees ( 42C ) in the afternoon for the next ten days. Luckily, evenings are pleasant! We all go out for a breath of air, a short walk and a chat at a distance with the neighbors. Normally this is the time of year when I would plan to travel for a few weeks to see family in cooler places. I would visit friends and family in England, my son and family in Washington State….but not this year! Now I am crossing off the days on the calendar and waiting for the rains to start. Perhaps by June we will see our way forward and soon after can welcome you all back! Life will begin to move back to our old pattern and I can open the office doors! If we have to wait a little longer, at least the rain brings life and hope back to the dry thirsty land.

I was in Merida yesterday to sign cheques and take care of a few necessities. It was strange to see the empty streets with no buses, no tourists, very little traffic and most businesses and all the malls shut. Walmart, Costco, Petco, Office Depot are all open and well-stocked and all enforcing a safe distance between shopping carts. There are places where life and commerce goes on. From last weekend, all alcohol sales are banned and face masks must be worn in public. I think the main goal of the dry law is to make sure any family money is spent on necessities right now, and perhaps to reduce family violence when people have been shut up together too long. I must say everything both in Merida and in the villages seems peaceful and very orderly. We have to hang on, stay safe and look after our neighbors.

We are thinking of all our friends and clients in the United States, Canada and around the world. We hope you and your families are safe and can’t wait to see you all again back in Merida. You can write me for anything you need or to let me know how you are at jen@tierrayucatan.com. Look after one another!

Love,

Jen

Summertime!

It’s that time of year… children are out of school and everyone who is able has moved from Merida to the beach. There is always safe swimming in the Gulf of Mexico. The water  is smooth as a mirror in the morning,  and a cooling breeze comes up in the evening, which means you seldom need air conditioning. Average temperatures in Merida are reaching 94 degrees, and dropping into the 70s and low 80s at night. This is hot, yes, but comfortable compared to many parts of the USA right now (friends are sweltering at 110 degrees in Dallas, they tell me).  These are the days for getting up early to do anything energetic, enjoying the swimming pool or a siesta in the afternoon, then dinner al fresco when the sun goes down.

I plan a short get-away this year.  I have a new grand baby Oliver, born on May 20th, and it is time to get to know him.  My son Zac and his family returned from two years in Malawi and Heather (a doctor, OBGYN) is now working with the hospital in Yakima, Washington.  It will be my first visit to that part of the United States, and of course I am looking forward to it very much.

One of my reasons for this blog post  is this:  I just came across useful information on the care of pasta tile floors.  If you haven’t bought yet, perhaps you don’t need this, but almost everyone who already has a home in Merida has a home with our beautiful tile floors. And everyone who has a tile floor (including me) can use this information.

I found this on the website of one of the companies still making these lovely tiles, many from the original 150 year old forms. The site is www.mosaicosdzununcan.com.  On the same site you can find galleries of design, ideas for laying tile if you plan new construction. Also, I am sure they will arrange for you to see the tile being hand-made at their factory in the village of Dzununcan.

Another excellent site is that of Mosaicos La Peninsular, www.mosaicoslapeninsular.com.  They also have showrooms in Merida and are ready to explain the manufacture and care of the tiles… they can show you their manufacturing facility right there in Merida Centro. This is a very old craft and interesting to watch and understand.  After seeing it, you will appreciate even more those hard-wearing carpets of color in your Yucatan home!

Maintaining Your Pasta Tile Floor

Recommendations for cleaning the pasta tiles, after they have been polished and shined for the first time:

Do not use chlorine and acids. The continuous use of detergents will dull the mosaic tile. It is preferable to use Pinol cleaner with the use of gas morado (also known as petroleum or kerosene).

It is recommended to mop the floor once or twice a week with only water and a shot of gas morado (about one tequila shot).  Instead of sweeping with a broom, you should use a straight mop (dusting mop) previously sprayed with gas morado (kerosene) allowing it to dry up for 1 or 2 days or as long as necessary in order to get completely dry. For best results, instead of the gas morado, you can spray on anyone of the following products: “adelimp”, “tratamop”, or “red oil for polishing furniture 3 in 1.”

That’s it! Have a great summer!

I thought I knew my little village after living here seven years, but…surprise! I was in Izamal today listing three pretty lots on the outskirts of the town, and after finishing the photography and getting the lay of the land, so to speak, I stopped at a little stall to buy a bottle of fresh coconut water.

Fresh coconut water for $1.50 a liter, cold and delicious.

Next to the coconut man, was a star fruit man… a first for me. I’d never seen someone selling star fruit here. Of course I bought a half-kilo of star fruit and curious, asked if they were imported. “No”, responds the very nice man. “I grow them myself nearby, in Tepakan.”

Who would have thought it? Sweet, juicy fresh star fruit on my doorstep at $1.50 for this plateful!

Jose Fernandez and his partner Richard Fuller purchased the ruins of an old hacienda near the village of Kinchil on the way to Celestun, and with love and care have created a hidden treasure.

With a group of friends I recently spent a very special afternoon. Together, we enjoyed a leisurely, six-course gourmet lunch created by Jose, where each dish was created from locally-grown ingredients. Jose has a very special touch and the hacienda itself is magical. The old and renovated hacienda buildings are set in beautiful tropical gardens that were designed and are cared for by Richard. There are two luxurious guest rooms, one in old hacienda style. The other guest room is modern and light, and both are large, very private and so relaxing! The rooms are blessed with private patios and everything you can imagine is provided to the guests.

It is definitely worth making time on your busy schedule for a visit to Hacienda San Jose Pachul. Whether you stay overnight or book ahead for a gourmet lunch experience in unique surroundings, consider visiting this magical place. Jose tells me they are planning spa get-away days that will be presented hand-in-hand with a well-known Merida spa. Then guests will be able to enjoy a massage, facial, pedicure, spa lunch and some time by the pool. I can’t wait! Look them up at www.haciendasanjosepachul.com, but book ahead as dining is by reservation only. Be sure to get directions, as the hacienda is kept hidden by design, to protect its privacy and that of the guests. If you take the time to visit, you won’t be sorry!

The Yucatan Peninsula is one big limestone shelf, shot through with holes like a big English muffin. The entire peninsula stays dry despite the torrential rains. The water soaks into the limestone and there are no rivers above ground here. Underground, the water is everywhere and we have a wonderland to explore… underground lakes and rivers of clear, unpolluted transparent water, always at an even temperature (in the high 70′s F). These cenotes (pronounced suh-NO-tays) are now famous with cave divers from around the world. Our hundreds of cenotes are an attraction for all visitors, as many of them are now prepared with easy access and facilities for you to spend the day with your family. As the Maya have known for centuries, a cenote is a cool getaway when the weather heats up.

So we can look at all this rain as a way to keep the cenotes filled with water from the heavens. And the rain has another blessing: cool evenings to enjoy a walk or dinner al fresco.

Nighttime temperature lows this week have been 66 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit! That’s pretty close to perfect evening weather for enjoying Merida and any of the hundreds of small towns on the Yucatan Peninsula.

You might remember our article about the race across the Yucatan Channel, from Cancun to Cozumel. You probably will not be surprised to hear that there is another popular water race held in the Yucatan. The VIII Open-Water Marathon Bacalar was held on the 22nd and 23rd of June at the beautiful lagoon of seven colors in the magical town of Bacalar.

This event broke all previous attendance records. Over one thousand two hundred swimmers in various categories came to swim in these beautiful waters, exceeding by far previous entries in other years.

Among the most prominent participants this year were four Olympic swimmers from the Republic of Chile, and of course Tierra Yucatan’s Ricardo Hassey. I could not miss this event! I entered in the 5 Kilometer category, finishing the swimming event with a time of 1 hour 42 minutes.

If you don’t know anything about Bacalar, you should! Bacalar, the town, is located 38 kilometers northwest of Chetumal, on the banks of a lagoon. Bacalar is in the state of Quintana Roo. It was named a pueblo mágico in 2006. The name Bacalar is derived from the Mayan word Halal Bak, which means “place surrounded by reeds”. Just knowing that, however, does not prepare you for the beauty of this place.

The Laguna Bacalar or Lagoon of Seven Colors, is a huge expanse of shallow water with very soft white sand. The various tones of the sand beneath and the sky above create an everchanging panoply of blue shades in the water, a fascinating show even without all those swimmers.

On one side of this lagoon, clearly identifiable by the substantially darker tones, you can find the natural wonder that is called the Blue Hole, a magical place very attractive for divers. The Blue Hole is a deeper part of the lagoon, which of course creates a deeper blue color on the surface. The entire lagoon is a lovely place for swimming and other non-invasive water sports. The waters are beautiful, Caribbean-clear and calmer than the ocean just a few miles away.

There are hotels and B&B’s in Bacalar, as well as houses and property for sale in that area. Bacalar is an up-and-coming area, and not just for swimming races!